Talking Menswear with David Gandy

‘Fashion is fuelled by passions elsewhere.’

Delighted to be a guest at The Industry London’s exclusive networking event last Wednesday, it was fascinating to listen to David Gandy in conversation with Hilary Alexander, answering questions about his successful career as the world’s only male supermodel. However, with a keen interest in the growth of British menswear and the future of men’s global fashion, there were a number of menswear-related questions I was eager to ask him myself...

David Gandy. Photo Credit: Sam Atkinson for The Industry

It can be a common misconception that the fashion world exists in isolation, so it was great to hear David talk about his equal passion for fashion and cars and how fashion can relate to men through other industries. As a self-confessed car aficionado, modelling is only one aspect of David’s life, and he admits that one of the best things about his job is the other opportunities and interests that modelling has enabled him to pursue.

Arriving at The Old Sorting Office for last month’s London Collections: Men driving a classic Morgan car for example, David demonstrated how effortlessly the worlds of fashion and motoring can coalesce. The extraordinary excitement generated around the car during his arrival and departure shows that fashion is indeed enriched by other passions; proving to men that fashion is neither scary nor inaccessible.

Photo Credit: The Morgan Motor Company
http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk

Photo Credit: The Morgan Motor Company

Writing a popular blog for Vogue.co.uk, contributing as a writer for Man about Town (one of my personal favourite men’s publications) and reviewing cars for GQ, David establishes a voice through which he can express and unite his interests in cars, fashion and other passions in his life, without being in front of the camera. As part of the discussion on Wednesday I enjoyed hearing his animated account of a recent Jaguar trip with Yasemin Le Bon, in which the duo participated in The Mille Miglia in Italy, racing 1000 miles in what David described as one of the toughest but greatest adventures of his life.

Keen to ask David about his observations of the augmentation of the menswear industry, until the inaugural London Collections: Men, he had noticed a gradual expansion of the menswear market since the start of his career. However, thanks to the resounding success of LC:M, he has seen interest in British menswear explode in the last few years.

LC:M attracts incredible global attention to British fashion talent, and David commented that the Asian market is a very important menswear market, not just for the world, for Britain, too. David believes that when it comes to individuality, British designers have the edge over anywhere else, with a wealth of young, fashion-forward designers shaping the future of innovative British design, fuelling a market which continues to get bigger and better.

Interested in emerging menswear designers, I asked David which menswear brands he thinks are particularly exciting for the future, and right now he believes that one of the best tailors in the world is Thom Sweeney. I have a thing for quality suits and tailoring (those who know me well will vouch for this!) and Thom Sweeney first really caught my attention when David Beckham arrived at the London 2012 Olympics in a speed boat, wearing an exquisite Thom Sweeney two-piece wool suit and silk tie.

Thom Whiddet and Luke Sweeney. Photo Credit: Thom Sweeney
http://www.thomsweeney.co.uk/#/about/index.aspx

Photo Credit: Thom Sweeney

I love how every Thom Sweeney suit is perfectly tailored to the personality and individuality of each client, whether the client is a lawyer, journalist, model, financer, T.V presenter or artist. The exhilarating new world of bespoke which has been created by Thom Whiddet and Luke Sweeney encapsulates the ultimate in luxurious craftsmanship and quality, and as David pointed out, if you turn on your T.V and see a great suit, it's most likely Thom Sweeney. I could go on to say a lot more about Thom Sweeney tailoring, but I will save further thoughts for a dedicated post!

David is an ambassador for Thom Sweeney, but he is also determined to keep men’s fashion accessible to everyone and he has long been a devoted advocate of M&S. Proud of British heritage, he is particularly excited by the M&S Best of British range to be launched by M&S in autumn in partnership with the British Fashion Council. First presented at LC:M in June, there could not have been a better occasion to showcase the modern yet unapologetically British collection characterised by tweeds, checks and British materials to celebrate the best of British design and manufacture.

David mentioned that a lot of men aren’t aware that this sort of style and quality exists on the highstreet, and of the 44-piece premium collection modelled by Oliver Cheshire (excellent casting), the double-breasted men’s overcoat and Donegal-tweed two-piece suit are a few of my favourite capsule pieces. Encompassing a broad range of classic consumers as well as an increasing growth in the under 35 market, the M&S brand is pushing their style aspect further with this collection and it will be interesting to gauge its popularity when it goes on sale in October 2013.

Donegal-tweed suit. Photo Credit: M&S. 

Overcoat. Photo Credit: M&S

Men's fashion is ever-expanding, with more men taking an interest in their personal style and an increasing number of high-profile men from different industries such as sport and acting becoming closely associated with fashion. Asking him about role models, David thinks that the topic of role models in fashion is interesting; he’s not sure you can aspire to be in fashion as much as an industry such as sport for example, however, he believes that fashion can still be incredibly inspiring for men.

There is now so much inspiration out there for men with an interest in style that it can seem quite intimidating, so David tries to make fashion tangible for everyone, conscious not to alienate any man from fashion. What he has always tried to do is to simplify fashion for men, and his style guide app serves to provide some much needed straightforward advice on how to build a wardrobe for every occasion.

Women have long had access to a preponderance of information about fashion, where stylish celebrity and street-style looks are regularly recreated for different budgets in 'Get the Look' type edits. Yet men also look at contemporary style icons and often think ‘how do they do that?’, so it is a brilliant idea to make shopping and style as uncomplicated as possible for men, too. Of course, some men enjoy styling for themselves, but many are grateful to have complete outfits edited and pieced together for them so that all they have to do is go online and click to buy. 

Compared to the saturated womenswear market, the fast-growing, underserved menswear market looks set for a dynamic and lucrative future. I agree with David that there aren't many stores dedicated solely to menswear; however, as the emergence of men’s-only flagship stores across the luxury segment begin to pave the way for the burgeoning menswear market, there's a good chance highstreet stores will follow suit, to give men more choice than ever before.

Thank you to The Industry for hosting the event; it was wonderful to meet David in person and I am extremely grateful for his insightful answers to my menswear questions. Thank you, David!

A Dangerous Obsession With Science and Beauty - Diversity NOW! Winning Journalism Entry

I was surprised but delighted  to win the journalism category of the Diversity NOW! Competition in association with i-D Magazine with my award presented to me at Graduate Fashion Week a few days ago. 

The journalism brief was a piece of energetic writing, charting a thoughtful and adventurous journey through or about image. It was to include a brief analysis the current culture of beauty and body ideals from your perspective and be no longer than 800 words. The aim of the competition was to empower the next generation of creatives, from design, film, photography and journalism to create a fashion future that promotes a broader range of body and beauty ideals to truly celebrate individuality. 

Fashion media is an increasingly powerful source of inspiration, information and comparison, and taking part in this thought-provoking competition has changed my perspective on the notions of beauty and the way that fashion is communicated. In a world where the boundaries of science, technology and beauty are becoming increasingly blurred, I think that it is vital to communicate a positive message that the future of fashion should embrace diversity and different types of beauty.

My winning entry is below:

Modern society has developed a dangerous obsession with science and beauty; a combination of powerful forces which, when combined, are alluring, seductive and mystifying. It is human nature to be seduced by beauty and to strive for self-improvement; to push the boundaries of humanity to become stronger, faster and more desirable. We live in an innovative, progressive society, constantly chasing the reward of the future, yet consequently, we are barely aware of the beauty of the present. Amidst our rapid race to move forward and improve ourselves, it is poignant to stop and think. About beauty. About the future. About humanity.

With eclectic channels of creative expression permeating the world around us, it seems incongruous that we should limit ourselves to portraying images which promote narrow ideals of beauty, endorsing unrealistic expectations of bodily perfection to define socially acceptable appearances.

What about diversity?

Such is the destructive nature of projecting images of digitally constructed beauty in the media, body dissatisfaction is now considered a normative discontent. Considering that we live in a society which prides itself on empowering and inspiring its population, it seems repressive and dysfunctional that women in particular are resorting to dangerous practices of self-destruction, putting themselves at risk in pursuit of what they are led to believe is the perfect body.

Cosmetic surgery procedures and eating disorders are rife and self-esteem is at an all-time low. This is at odds with the image of an empowering society. In the Western World it is engrained in our beliefs that we, as individuals, are responsible for ‘making it happen’, and in contemporary culture this ‘it’ is increasing associated with achieving physical perfection. With each one of us held responsible for our successes and failures, the value of success should be re-evaluated, with less emphasis placed on appearance as the dominant formula for personal achievement.

It is important to consider the nature of the society we are creating for younger generations; to analyse the messages we are communicating about the true meaning of beauty and the values of humanity. When I look at an image of a woman that has been subject to hours of meticulous manipulation to erase any trace of imperfection, I don’t see perfection as a result. Instead I see someone who is sterile, sinister and artificial. This goes for the faces I see which have been distorted by plastic surgery in order to imitate the look of a flawless image.

I like to see wrinkles to know that a person has laughed; I like to see scars to know that a person has lived and I like to see flaws to know that a person is real. Reality is not perfect, yet perhaps the most meaningful form of beauty lies in truth.

In the modern, cosmetically altered woman, a monster has been created; her skin is flawless, her lips are plump, her cheeks are well-defined, but her face lacks the capacity to express her emotions. With a countenance that defies her inner feelings, she is barely human.

Advances in technology and science in contemporary culture have enabled the human race to strive towards achieving the impossible. The conflict between nature and culture has been prominent since civilization began, yet never before has nature been defied or pushed to such extremes as it is in our current society. Experimenting with the configuration of the human body, we are dabbling in the unknown. The threatening development of genetic modification for aesthetic enhancement is surely a step too far? Attempting to re-code the very building blocks of our existence is dangerous territory. Push nature too much and she is sure to rebel.

With this in mind, I envision two potential futures; one is an uncertain future in which the face of beauty is homogeneous and manufactured; the other is an exciting future in which beauty is representative of individuality and creativity. It is within our power to shape the beauty of the future wisely, and responsibly, by challenging conventional notions of beauty and promoting images which are beautiful regardless of race, age, size or gender. We should portray images which encourage self-esteem rather than self-destruction, celebrating the eclecticism of natural beauty which cannot be digitally constructed on a computer screen or cosmetically enhanced in a surgery. Let us embrace diversity. NOW.

Bip Ling - Graduate Fashion Week Ambassador for NTU

Before her arrival, blogger, model and DJ Bip Ling didn’t know what to expect of her visit to Nottingham Trent University a few weeks ago. However, after viewing the graduate Fashion Knitwear and Fashion Design collections, she left incredibly impressed by the design talent at NTU.

As our Graduate Fashion Week 2013 ambassador, Bip had the enviable but difficult decision of choosing an outfit from the talented NTU graduate designs to wear at GFW. She loved the structure of a blue jacket by fashion designer Sophie Canning, and the character of a crazy knitted jacket by fashion knitwear designer Danielle Wells, but in the end she chose to wear a beautiful skirt designed by Hayley McBride with a tailored jacket by designer Nay Young Shim. Overall Bip was amazed by the eclectic use of different colours and fabrics used throughout all of the collections, and ‘mind-blowing’ was just one of the many adjectives she used to describe the garments she saw.

Bip likes dressing up in clothes with attitude, and having started to run a club night when she was just seventeen as well as designing T-shirts, she has always been creative. With experience in many different areas of fashion, Bip’s advice on the industry is invaluable. As well as gaining work experience in industry, she stresses the importance of meeting people and sharing creative inspiration. Photography, design, film-making and styling all contribute to creating amazing fashion; see the world and take it all in, then connect to create an explosion!

The highly anticipated NTU graduate show at GFW was an incredible sell-out showcase of a selection of NTU’s most promising designers, and for Bip, the most exciting thing about attending GFW was the chance to soak up the upbeat atmosphere and support unique up and coming designers. Bip’s a firm believer in finding what you like and what makes you happy and going for it; the bolder and brighter the better. An inspirational ambassador for any aspiring creative!  

'Dreamscapes' - Tim Walker Exhibition Preview at The Bowes Museum

Long captivated by the enticing fantasy of Tim Walker’s photographs, I was delighted to be invited to the preview event of Walker's most recent photography exhibition 'Dreamscapes' at the beautiful Bowes Museum at Barnard Castle. Having enjoyed the hugely successful Tim Walker ‘Storyteller' exhibition at Somerset House at the end of last year, I was intrigued to see how the esteemed curator, former Turner Prize judge Greville Worthington, would interpret and display the iconic work of one of the worlds most visually exciting contemporary fashion photographers.

The Bowes Museum . Image - Musuem Network UK

It is always a challenge to inspire people to look at things they have seen before in a different way, however, by using lightboxes to display Walker’s photographs for the first time, the innovative Dreamscapes exhibition offers a refreshingly different perspective of Tim Walker’s work. On entering the darkened exhibition room, visitors are able to view Walker’s imagery in an entirely new light. I was already familiar with many of the images featured in the exhibition, but never before had I seen them presented with such an invigorated intensity of colour, illumination and fantasy. The 3D effect of the lightboxes really does bring the images to life.

© Tim Walker Images Dreamscapes at The Bowes Museum

Inside the Dreamscapes Exhibition at The Bowes Museum

Many photographs featured in the exhibition were taken in Northumberland, not too far north of The Bowes Museum, inside the rooms of Eglingham Hall and outside in the surrounding gardens and countryside. The Dreamscapes exhibition focuses primarily on the concept of landscape photography, but as the title suggests, not on landscapes as we know them. Walker's work is renowned for an ethereal, dreamlike quality, and with roots in traditions of English landscape painting, elements of surrealism juxtaposed with traditional English scenes make this collection of otherworldly images particularly mesmeric.

Inside/Outside, Eglingham Hall Northumberland (2002)
© 2002 Tim Walker, Dreamscapes at The Bowes Museum

Guinevere Van seenus and LinderSterling collage, Eglingham Hall, Northumberland (2011)
© 2011 Tim Walker, Dreamscapes at The Bowes Museum

Some of the images in the Dreamscapes exhibition feature models; an eerily beautiful shot of Kristen McMenamy at twilight and a whimsical picture of Stella Tennant and a pink powder cloud are among my favourites, however other images portray intricately crafted scenes which border on surrealism, taking the inside outside and bringing the outside inside. An image titled ‘Snow in Summer’, a photo capturing an ornate, flower-filled room disturbed by a unexpected flurry of snow, seems fitting considering recent, extreme weather conditions!

Stella Tennant and pink powder cloud, Eglingham Hall, Northumberland (2007)
© 2007 Tim Walker, Dreamscapes at The Bowes Museum

Stig the dog and crystal galleon, Stoke Park Pavilions, Northamptonshire (2010)
© 2010 Tim Walker, Dreamscapes at The Bowes Museum

Despite having photographed for the world’s leading fashion magazines, it is interesting that it was never an interest in fashion which motivated Walker to photograph, yet it is through fashion photography that he continues to transgress the boundaries of reality to explore the realms of dreams and fantasy. Although Walker’s work toys with surrealism, the images are very real, created using impressive props and installations instead of digital manipulation. Where the Storyteller exhibition at Somerset House recreated imposing  sets in which to immerse visitors in the spectacular theatre of Walker’s stories, the bold simplicity of ‘Dreamscapes’ heightens the sense of mystery and emphasizes the artistic elements of his work.

Opening speech by curator Greville Worthington

Grand entrance of The Bowes Museum

The preview itself was a wonderful event, and I welcomed the opportunity to look around the museum during a drinks reception and before the opening speech. Meeting Tim Walker himself was certainly the highlight of the evening!  In his opening speech, Worthington acknowledged that the great turnout of guests who attended the preview event indicated that interest in the creative arts is very much alive and kicking, and for me it was a nice change to travel north to The Bowes Museum to view a prestigious exhibition outside of London.

Drinks reception

Meeting Tim Walker

The Dreamscapes exhibition opened at The Bowes Museum on May 25th and continues throughout the summer until the 1st of September 2013. Worthington’s challenge is to get more people to visit the Dreamscapes exhibition than the Storyteller exhibition; an ambitious aim, but where Tim Walker’s photography is concerned, anything is possible. Marvel at Walker’s stunning interior and exterior landscapes and be inspired by settings where dreams and reality are merged into one.

I would like to thank The Bowes Museum for kindly allowing me to take photos inside the museum on the PREVIEW NIGHT ONLY to provide a small glimpse of this exciting exhibition. To see more, you'll have to visit yourself!

. 

Strange Days

 ‘Strange days indeed’ began the LS:N trend briefing presented by Martin Raymond and Peter Firth. Featured as lyrics in John Lennon’s song ‘Nobody Told Me’, perhaps at the time of writing the song in the 1970s, Lennon sensed that the world was changing at a rapid pace, or that society was on the edge of a dramatic transformation and a technological revolution. But whether it was intuition or merely coincidence, in a short space of time, our world has changed more than most people could have ever imagined.  What was once considered science-fiction is now our reality.

The hugely insightful trend briefing proposed one mind blowing concept after another, and I was fascinated throughout the briefing by the symposium of everything from the dawn of big data and mega-systems to the conceptions of gated retail and physical-digital architecture. Unfortunately, scribbling down over 12 pages of notes during the afternoon briefing, I cannot possibly cover everything in this blog post. However, what I find particularly interesting, and relevant to my area of study, is how brands are adapting to changes in the modern world, increasingly using innovation over heritage to engage consumers with higher ‘tech-pectations’. It is also interesting to observe how new, young generations of people are adapting to technological advances.

Our world population is categorised by generation, with generation gaps widening synonymously with the developing of technology.  Perhaps the most fascinating generation to look at is Generation I, children under 10 who have grown up with technology and have a different way of thinking about how they interact with the world. Where you and I grew up with books, they are growing up with iPads and smart phones; expecting everything they encounter to be instant and interactive. It is common for young children to swipe the television screen with their finger to try to change the channel over, to touch a newspaper and expect to be able to zoom in or turn the page and even to ask if they can pause a match whilst in the stands watching a live football game. Because in the digital world they were born into, all this is not only possible, it is normal.

The emergence of what LS:N global has coined ‘Phy-gital spaces’ shows how digital interaction is increasingly incorporated into the real world and brands are using this concept widely as a part of their in-store retail. In fashion retail, the McQ London flagship store opened last year is a perfect example of a retail space where old meets new and authentic, tactile in-store luxury juxtaposes innovative, digital in-store technology.  The main feature of the store is an interactive table enabling customers to search, browse and share McQ looks and control a video in the entrance of the store. There are also mirrors with inbuilt cameras to allow customers to try on clothes, take pictures of themselves and then email these to friends or share via social media. 

McQ Flagship Store London

McQ Flagship Store London

McQ Flagship Store London

Most bricks-and-mortar stores are now seen more as show rooms, as consumers tend to browse in stores but purchase online from elsewhere. However, for those ‘old-fashioned’ types such as myself who don’t shop online but instead prefer to try and buy clothes in-store, brands are aware of the importance of offline retail to create memorable consumer experiences, even if the majority of consumers do leave the store empty handed to purchase online.

Generation I is the future, so brands are looking at how they can consistently engage and excite increasingly discerning and tech-savvy consumers who rarely accept the digital world as it is offered to them but recreate it in their own image to cater for their needs. It is interesting that 73% of Generation I children already influence their parents purchasing of clothes, holidays, food and technology. Would my parents have let me choose a car or a washing machine at the age of 10? Probably not. But then again when I was younger I did not possess the instinctive ability to comprehend, recode and analyse technology as generation I do. At the age of 10, I had probably only been on a computer a couple of times.

One of the key, underlying observations I noted from the briefing is the way in which science, art and technology are increasingly blurring to become the main driving forces of our society. Science was once considered dull and intangible; I myself was never particularly enthusiastic about science at school, yet now science is a driving force with technology as the enabler, and the boundaries between science and art are closer than ever before. Science is now more accessible than ever before, with a large number of citizen scientists undertaking complex scientific research from their own homes. As an example, more than 65,000 citizens are currently studying the surface of mars...

Utilizing this ubiquitous science culture, brands are becoming key facilitators of scientific research and experiments; take the Red Bull sponsored Stratos jump as an example. But why do we have such a fascination with space? Well, it seems that we can only consider the potential of our world from an insular perspective for so long, before we begin to look upwards for opportunities in our hunger for new ideas and innovation. Escapism? Perhaps. Curiosity? Definitely. Foolishness? We’ll see. Space tourism is the next frontier for wealthy travellers and space is inspiring advertising campaigns in what LS:N have termed as ‘space-vertising’. In a film created by Maneki Lab with the help of Obscom, luxury fashion brand Louis Vuitton’s campaign Red Journey pushes the desire for travel to new limits in a fascinating 3D journey exploring the landscape of planet Mars. It’s not on my list of places to go, but it really is breathtaking. Link to video here: http://vimeo.com/channels/ceiga/52230493

Still from Louis Vuitton's Red Journey

Still from Louis Vuitton's Red Journey

Still from Louis Vuitton's Red Journey

Still from Louis Vuitton's Red Journey

I’m not part of generation I; the generation with the world at their fingertips who can’t remember anything else. But even at the young age of 20, immersed in creative industries at the forefront of modern technology and open-minded thinking, some aspects of society seem alien to me; the thought of space travel scares me and I can’t help but question the consequences of continuing to blur the physical and the digital world into one. Having said that, I am intrigued by change. The future is uncertain, yet we are living in an age where we have come to view uncertainty as opportunity to achieve the unthinkable; these days may seem strange, but they are about to get a whole lot stranger. These are capricious but exciting times.

Thank you to Martin and Peter for such a fascinating talk! 

  

Maiyet - Pioneering a New Luxury

Luxury is defined by superior craftsmanship. Characterised by timelessness, richness and quality, the enduring concept of luxury fashion opposes the destructive phenomenon of ‘fast fashion’ and the unethical production practices and damaging environmental effects that overshadow it. But, due to the ephemeral nature of fashion and trends, the fashion industry as a whole is not renowned for having a particularly positive impact on the world.

Thankfully, there are an increasing number of initiatives developing in the fashion world which seek to challenge negative perceptions by showing that fashion can have a social and moral conscience at its core. Endorsing an innovative, ethical approach to luxury fashion, high-end brand Maiyet demonstrates how a globally recognized luxury fashion brand can harness the power of business and capital to establish stability, self-sufficiency and prosperity in developing economies around the world.

I first discovered Maiyet when I came across the beautiful short film 'Sleepwalking in The Rift'; a deeply immersive love story set amidst the breathtaking plains of East Africa, directed by highly acclaimed director Cary Fukunaga. Visually stunning and emotionally poignant, the film explores the intricate connections between nature, humanity and creativity; embodying Maiyet’s philosophy to utilize the crafts and traditions of indigenous people to increase employment, profitability and peace in creative communities.

What is particularly exciting about Maiyet is its deep commitment to forging partnerships with master craftsmen in unexpected parts of the world; to celebrate and sustain the rarest and most unique artisanal skills. Promoting the highest calibre of ethnic design from countries such as Columbia, India, Indonesia, Italy, Kenya, Mongolia and Peru, Maiyet works closely with independent non-profit organisation Nest to ensure that a percentage of profits go to fund training and development for artisan businesses.

For me, it’s the skill, spirit and soul behind the work that makes the Maiyet collections so captivating. Inspired by the Ancient Egyptian concept of truth and harmony, Maiyet’s unique collections are characterized by the human touch. The essence of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection is captured perfectly by a stunning campaign shot in India, featuring model Daria Werbowy wearing a selection of exquisite white-on-white looks, delicate silks and chiffons, and striking prints and embroideries.

Maiyet is pioneering an innovative new concept of luxury; giving something back to the people and places that need it most.  

Image from Maiyet.com. S/S 2013 Campaign.

Image from Maiyet.com

Image from Maiyet.com

Image from Maiyet.com

Image from Maiyet.com

Image from Maiyet.com

Image from Maiyet.com

Inspiration from Colin McDowell

Occasionally life is so absorbing that I do not have as much time as I would like to pause, reflect and write. Sometimes it can be good just to live; to experience life without analysing it too critically or filtering it into a piece of writing. However, for me, the freedom of writing expressively is synonymous with the pleasure of living curiously and creatively.

Earlier this week I was delighted to attend a fascinating talk by my personal favourite fashion writer and one the fashion industries most influential commentators, Colin McDowell. Reading much of his work for The Sunday Times Style magazine and more recently for The Business of Fashion, it was Colin McDowell’s discerning words which first ignited my interest in writing about fashion as a career. I am particularly looking forward to reading Colin’s new book ‘The Anatomy of Fashion’, to be published by Phaidon this year.

Image of Colin McDowell from www.drapersonline.com 13/09/12

McDowell could have given us a boring lecture, but he didn't. As a speaker, he is highly charismatic and engaging, and without exception, the eclectic audience was compelled by his every word. There was no need for a PowerPoint or even any prompts, as by inviting questions from the audience, Colin encouraged us to generate the topics of discussion that we wanted to broach. Putting him on the spot, Colin illuminated every question with unprecedented insight and enthusiasm. It is fair to say that everyone left the talk informed, impressed and immensely inspired. ‘Wowed’.

Elaborating on everything from the ominous death of print publications to the exciting future of fashion in Asia, the interactive discussion commenced with a question relating to a topical debate; what is Colin's view on citizen journalism? This question reminded me of an article I read with interest posted in Colin's Column on The Business of Fashion at the end of July 2012 titled 'Does the Fashion Critic Matter Anymore?' At the time, reading this thought-provoking article and the mixed comments it evoked prompted me to question the future of fashion writing and its evolution in the digital age. As Colin pointed out, ‘technology has given everyone a voice’. How then, I wondered, can one establish a unique and informed voice that is heard above the yelling of the masses? I asked Colin this very question.

I had only a few precious minutes to speak to him in person, but his advice was clear; you’ve got to have an opinion and you’ve got to know what’s going on in the world, outside of fashion. Read about subjects such as sport and travel; see what’s being written about it and how it’s being written. Many fashion writers/critics and bloggers have now succumbed to pressures imposed on them by increasingly powerful PRs; they merely report and describe what they see, rather than analysing and interpreting what they really think. With extensive experience of the fashion industry as a designer, an illustrator, a publicist, an opinionated journalist of over twenty years and founder of the Fashion Fringe initiative, Colin has written over twenty books on fashion and he unaffectedly says what he thinks. This, I admire.

Recently I read another thought-provoking article, again on The Business of Fashion, in which Diane Pernet also reflects on the current state of fashion criticism. In this article Diane comments that ‘It takes a certain amount of curiosity and openness toward what is new, combined with a strong understanding of what went on in the past to be a really great critic.’ This, along with a freedom from commercial constraints allowing them to voice their own opinions, is what distinguishes experienced writers such as Colin McDowell, Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn from many other commentators and critics of fashion and why I believe their views are important. Their cultural, artistic, social, political and historical insight and understanding of the past frames fashion in context, enabling less experienced writers such as myself to gain the knowledge to understand and the confidence to decipher for ourselves.   

Colin is extremely approachable and keen to share his expertise. I was especially delighted when he complimented my outfit! After listening to Colin’s talk and meeting him in person I would argue that the judicious fashion critic with an objective opinion does matter. I do not limit ‘critic’ to the critiquing of designer collections on the runway. Fashion is a cultural barometer after all, and the most observant fashion critics use their knowledge and experience to comment on contentious issues in the fashion industry, exploring social, political and cultural implications in the wider world. I have my own opinion, but I am always keen to broaden my perspective and expand my knowledge in order to make my views more informed. We do not have to agree with fashion critics, but surely being open-minded to their astute perceptions can only help to shape our own individual judgements?

So where do citizen journalists fit in to all of this? Well, I believe that anyone with passion should  have the opportunity to write and express their views. However, I don’t believe that this diminishes the importance of established fashion writers; if anything it emphasises their credibility. Anyone who was lucky enough to attend the talk by Colin McDowell at NTU will have witnessed the way he engaged and enthused his inquisitive audience of fashion students and realised just how much we all appreciated and benefitted from his insightful expertise. More than ever, I am inspired to write. 

Thank you, Colin!

http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/07/colins-column-does-the-fashion-critic-matter-anymore-2.html

http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/03/op-ed-who-watches-the-watchmen.html